“There and Back”: The Mysteries of Sakar and the Lonely Tower Where King Kaloyan Defeats the Crusaders

The border furrow with the Republic of Turkey runs along the southern slopes of Mount Sakar and ends in present-day Bulgaria. The small villages are almost deserted, and over the years nature gradually takes over the ruined houses. An almost forgotten part of the homeland, dotted with ancient history.

If you ever find yourself in the village of Matochina, your eyes will surely fall on a lone tower rising northeast of the center. The elevation is accessible only from the village and its strategic position was used in Roman times. The Bukelon military fortress was built there. The outlines of the fortification are still visible today, but the best preserved is the tower.

In 1205, one of the most famous battles in our history was fought in the area. King Kaloyan defeated the Crusaders and captured Emperor Baldwin of Flanders. Later, during the Turkish era, Bukelon gradually died out, preserving the memory of the glorious battles near Edirne.

“There and Back”: The Secret of the Petrified Forest in the Eastern Rhodopes

Just one kilometer southwest of Matochina, on the gentle slope of Sakar, a mysterious rock church has been hidden. It is difficult to find, as it is dug into rocks that drop down into the otherwise level field, and its entrance faces west.

The Holy Spirit Temple is known to have been carved by hermit monks as early as the 10th century, but was in use until the early 20th century. Today it is revered by the people of the area and by casual tourists seeking adventure in the deep Southeast.

In the 10th century, the other popular rock church in the area was also carved – we found it in the rocks near the nearby village of Mihalich. As soon as we enter, we feel that the “St. Pantaleimon” temple is unique. There is no other rock house in our country with such a shape and spacious interior. The height in the central part is almost 6 meters. Whoever excavated it tried to make the interior resemble a perfectly normal built church with three niches. Locals say the space was also used in our recent history as a military warehouse in the years before 1989.

“There and Back”: Ancient Solar Observatories

There is not much written history about the church. On the other hand, a legend tells how two guardian snakes live there. They only appear when a person with bad intentions enters.

The southern slopes of Sakar are most welcoming in spring. As far as your eyes can see, there are sloping hills covered in greenery. However, the walk takes time – one should allow at least a day to find and tour the Buquelon fortress and the two rock churches emblematic of the area.